A
TALE OF TWO
DIFFERENT ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
By
Michael Hepworth
Visits
to Italian restaurants are always fun, but sometimes the variety of
choices can be staggering. I recently visited two distinctly different
places, Murano in
West Hollywood
,and the popular L’Ocanda Del Lago in Santa Monica
L’Ocanda has a dream location adjacent to the 3rd Street
Mall, and attracts a nice mix of regulars and tourists. Both have youngish
talented Italian chefs in charge, but the contrasts could not be more
apparent.
Murano
is located near the intersection of Melrose/Doheny, one of the most
happening intersections in the city. Murano is slightly more subtle than
Locanda, and with a new chef on board direct from
Miami
but originally from
Naples
, Luciana Sautto (37), the future looks bright. His specialty is Italian
“small plates,” the perfect way to try Italian food, and here you can
check out his “Piattini” menu n the lounge.
Pizza
is one of his specialties, and they are all made from scratch using his
family’s recipe at their pizza house, Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples
. Standout is the Quattro Stagioni ($14), a pizza topped with Artichokes,
Black Olives,Cremini Mushrooms, Porchetta Ham Tomatoes, Parmesan Cheese
and Basil. All the pizzas here are very light and a must try.
The
blue authentic glass chandeliers that adorn the dining room are simply
spectacular and a great contrast to the austere purity of the all white
room, including the very comfortable seats. Tuesdays is the day to go for
the $12 menu, and the opportunity to try some of the varied items on the
menu. These include an extensive selection of pastas, some homemade and
others imported, and of course a creative choice of fish, chicken, veal
and steak dishes.
Luciana
is also an accomplished pastry chef, and his selection of desserts are
full of surprises, an example being then Sfogliatelle, Puff Pastry layers
filled with Sweet Ricotta Cheese and Candied Oranges.”
One
of the signature dishes at Locanda is the delectable Butternut Squash
Risotto with seared scallops and a balsamic glaze that was prepared
perfectly, and a dish to choose for sure. There also seems to be an
obsession in the kitchen with sea food, a typical example being the Wild
Giant Tiger Shrimp from Senegal, served in a puff pastry wrap and red cabbage.
The
bread here is excellent despite not being baked on the premises, and at
9.30 pm
the place was still buzzing with a nice mix of people, all enjoying the
authentic menu and the extensive wine list consisting of 70% Italian
wines.
The
style of food here is from all over
Italy, and since my personal choice tends to be food primarily from the Milan
region, the Osso Bucco was a welcome addition to the menu, served of
course with risotto. Chef Roberto is a true Italian but also very young at
25, and in the seven months he has been in charge is doing a great job,
despite being a supporter of the wrong Soccer team out of Milan
.
As
an appetizer, go for the Trotella in Carpione, sautéed fillets of pink
trout marinated in white wine vinegar with carrots, celery, onion over
toasted crostini. The menu changes constantly depending on the season and
the mood of the chef, and this fixture in Santa Monica
has been doing it right for some time now and is continuing on the right
path.
Finally
for a dessert try the Vesuvio di Cioccolato, a well described indulgent
fantasy of warm chocolate “volcano” soufflé with mint sauce.
Fact
Sheet
Murano
9010 Melrose Ave
,
West Hollywood
,
CA
90069
Phone:
310-246-9118
Website:
www.murano9010.com
Dinner
for two w/wine $150
Locanda
Del Lago
231 Arizona Ave
,
Santa Monica
,
CA
90401
Phone:
310-451-3525
Dinner
for two w/wine $120
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