THE KRESS OPENS UP IN HOLLYWOOD

By Michael Hepworth

To say that the KRESS restaurant in Hollywood is about to have a big impact on the Hollywood dining scene is an understatement. This is a restaurant located in a 5 story building smack dab in the center of Hollywood , in the location that used to house Fredericks of Hollywood for 54 years. The ground floor restaurant is also an art deco/architectural delight, and there is a basement night club, a stylish Sushi Bar on the second floor, a banqueting area, and a trendy rooftop VIP night club. I checked the restaurant out three weeks after opening day in early July, but I knew it would be good because the owner Mike Viscuso selected executive chef Troy N.Thompson to run the show with his usual dose of creativity ruled by an iron fist in the massive kitchen set up.

Thompson is used to oversized kitchens, having ruled the roost at Jerne restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina Del Rey and more recently at the Venetian in Las Vegas . Family reasons brought him back to the Southland, and this is a huge opportunity for him to put a solid stamp on his career.  Many of his Asian Fusion ideas have arrived at Kress, and with an eight course tasting menu changing every night ($100), this is a place you can never get bored with. You can order items a la carte as well, but you have to start with the exquisite Kurobuta Pork Shank Terrine, a dish with a firm fresh texture. Troy would love to make his restaurant all fish, and winning dishes on the tasting menu include the Sugar Cane Peppered Konpachi in an excellent crust. The only problem I had with that dish is that the Hearts of Palm salad was “overdressed” and a lighter touch might have been in order. However, his signature Tuna Toro on a 550 degree Hot Rock, with ginger and scallion served with hot oils is always something to look forward to in a Troy Thompson restaurant.

More ginger crusted fish came along in the form of the Halibut with roasted carrots and morel mushrooms. My companion who knows a thing or two about fine dining had the New Zealand Snapper with summer truffles instead, and luckily gave me a morsel to try as well. Main course arrived in the form of Coffee Rubbed Moulard Duck Breast on a glazed peach with chanterelle mushrooms.  It is clear from the selection of dishes and the sides that Troy Thompson has some definite preferences when it comes to his favorites, and if you are into the more eclectic foods and side orders that this is the place for you. All food is extremely well prepared and presented, and I can’t wait for my next visit.  Desserts are also of a high order here, and the selection of five different sorbets in small ice cream cones is a real treat. Also, the Angel Food Cake with Rhubarb and Strawberry Chip rounds out a near perfect meal

Address: 6608 Hollywood Blvd , Hollywood , CA

Phone: (323)-785-5000

Valet Parking $10 w/validation in rear of building.

Open: Tuesday-Saturday-dinner only but open late

Reservations-Advised

Dressy/Flashy attire if arriving after 10pm